
The Majestic Wuyi Mountains and the Rich, Fragrant Charm of Its Teas
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Time to read 10 min
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Time to read 10 min
Nestled in the misty mountains of northern Fujian, Wuyi Mountain stands not only as a sacred landscape of breathtaking beauty but also as one of the most historically significant tea-producing regions in China. Known as the birthplace of rock tea (Yan Cha) and the cradle of Zhengshan Xiaozhong, the world’s first black tea, Wuyi’s rich terroir and ancient craftsmanship have shaped some of the most revered teas on earth.
This article offers a deep dive into the history, geography, and signature teas of Wuyi Mountain—from legendary leaves like Da Hong Pao, steeped in imperial lore, to rare treasures like Tie Luohan and Bai Ji Guan. You'll also discover the famed Three Gongfu Black Teas of Fujian and the region’s celebrated white teas.
Whether you're a seasoned tea drinker or just beginning to explore the world of Chinese tea, this guide is crafted to help you appreciate the remarkable culture, craftsmanship, and stories steeped in every cup of Wuyi tea.
Wuyi Mountain is regarded as the most magnificent mountain in Fujian Province. Not only is it home to some of China’s most celebrated teas, but it is also a world-renowned tourist destination. A journey to Wuyi Mountain is not complete without both scenic exploration and the enjoyment of its teas.
The Wuyi Mountain region has a climate and environment ideal for a wide variety of rare flora and fauna. It is one of China’s most important nature reserves, containing a rich biodiversity and a complete ecosystem. Globally, it stands as a model of ecological and cultural coexistence.
Beyond its ecological value, Wuyi Mountain is rich in cultural heritage. Its unique geological structure and diverse landforms have led archaeologists to discover many ancient cultural relics. Additionally, it is one of the birthplaces of Taoism in China, making it a spiritual as well as a natural treasure.
Tea cultivation in Wuyi Mountain can be traced back to the Southern Dynasties (420–589 AD). The earliest written documentation of Wuyi tea appears during the Yuanhe era of the Tang Dynasty (806–820 AD), where it was known as "Late Sweet Throat" (Wan Gan Hou).
By the Song Dynasty, Wuyi tea had gained national recognition. During the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, it rose to the status of imperial tribute tea. In 1302 AD (Yuan Dynasty, Dade Year 6), the royal court established the Imperial Tea Roasting Bureau on the banks of Jiǔqǔ Stream in Wuyi Mountain—referred to as the Imperial Tea Garden (Yu Cha Yuan). Here, tribute tea was meticulously cultivated and processed, earning favor from the emperors and expanding the influence of Wuyi tea.
In the 17th century, Wuyi tea began to be exported to Europe, where it became popular among the aristocracy and upper classes. Its international presence laid the foundation for Chinese tea’s global reputation.
The Wuyi Mountain region is characterized by a subtropical monsoon climate, with abundant rainfall, moderate temperatures, and plentiful water resources. The soil is acidic and rich in humus, creating the perfect environment for growing tea.
Vegetation here is rich and mostly composed of short shrubs. These do not compete with tea trees for nutrients but rather release delicate floral fragrances. Thanks to the humid canyon air, these aromas are not easily lost and are absorbed into the tea leaves, forming the distinctive fragrance of Wuyi tea.
The most renowned tea of Wuyi Mountain is Wuyi Rock Tea (Yan Cha), named for the rocky crevices in which its trees grow. It possesses the freshness of green tea and the mellowness of black tea, making it a premium variety of oolong—one of China’s most treasured tea categories.
Wuyi’s rich terroir produces many famous teas, including:
Da Hong Pao (Big Red Robe) – the crown jewel
Zhengshan Xiaozhong – the ancestor of black tea
Jin Jun Mei – a high-end black tea innovation
Rou Gui – known for its distinct “rock charm”
Minbei Shuixian , Tie Luohan , and Bai Ji Guan
Each tea has unique characteristics, together contributing to the rich and colorful legacy of Wuyi Mountain tea.
Da Hong Pao is now preserved in the National Museum of China, recognized for its profound impact on both Chinese and global tea history as the archetype of oolong tea. The folk tales surrounding its origin are mythical and captivating.
During the Ming Dynasty, a scholar on his way to take the imperial exam fell seriously ill while passing through Wuyi Mountain. An elderly monk from Tianxin Temple treated him with tea made from leaves harvested from rocks beside the temple. After drinking the tea, his pain vanished.
Later, the scholar passed the exam with top honors and returned to thank the monk. Upon hearing of the tea’s miraculous properties, he requested some to offer to the emperor. Coincidentally, the empress was suffering from abdominal pain. She drank the tea and recovered instantly. The emperor, overjoyed, gifted a red robe to be draped over the tea tree as a sign of imperial favor.
When the robe was removed, the tea tree's leaves glowed red in the sunlight. From then on, the tree was known as Da Hong Pao ("Big Red Robe"). It became the emperor’s annual tribute tea. In the 1980s, three more trees were cloned from the original mother trees, resulting in six authentic Da Hong Pao bushes known today.
Since ancient times, Wuyi Rock Tea has been praised as a health-preserving drink. It is said that Shennong used it to detoxify 72 poisons. Today, scientific analysis shows that rock tea is rich in potassium, zinc, selenium, and natural compounds such as oxalic and tannic acids—providing significant health benefits.
Among all Wuyi teas, Wuyi Rock Tea (Yan Cha) is undoubtedly the most famous. Because its tea trees grow between rocks, it is known as “rock tea.” It carries the floral fragrance of green tea and the mellow sweetness of black tea, making it the finest among China’s oolong teas.
Zhengshan Xiaozhong originates in Tongmu Pass, Wuyishan, Fujian Province. Also known as Lapsang Souchong, this tea is recognized as the world’s first black tea , first produced in the late 18th century. In 2005, based on the traditional Zhengshan Xiaozhong process, a new high-end tea— Jin Jun Mei —was developed, revitalizing the entire black tea industry in China.
Since 1982, Wuyi Rou Gui has been awarded numerous national tea honors. In 1992, it won recognition at the first China Agricultural Expo. In July 1994, it received a gold medal at the Ulaanbaatar International Exposition in Mongolia. Later that year, at a Cross-Strait Autumn Oolong Tea Expo held in Zhangpu and sponsored by Taiwan’s Ten Ren Group, both Wuyi Ban Tian Yao and Wuyi Rou Gui received first prize and a silver “Golden Key Award.”
Today, Wuyi Rou Gui is exported to Southeast Asia, Japan, the UK, and other countries and regions.
Storage of Rou Gui
Rou Gui requires careful storage. It must be kept in a low-temperature, dry, oxygen-free, and lightproof environment. It should never be stored alongside other items, especially those with strong odors, as that could cause deterioration in quality.
Shuixian (Water Immortal) tea is one of the most distinguished floral oolong teas in northern Fujian. It is unique in character and flavor. While the Shuixian tea cultivar is commonly used for oolong tea, its name may vary by region. In the Minbei production zone, oolong tea made from Nanya Shuixian leaves is specifically referred to as Minbei Shuixian .
Jin Jun Mei was developed in 2005 by Mr. Jiang Yuanxun, whose family has cultivated Zhengshan Xiaozhong for generations. His team improved the traditional process to create this high-end black tea. Jin Jun Mei is significantly more expensive than standard black teas for several reasons:
(1) High Raw Material Cost
Jin Jun Mei is made from bud tips picked from wild tea trees within the Wuyi Mountain National Nature Reserve. These trees are scattered and grow in small patches, so the harvesting process is time-consuming and expensive. The scarcity of authentic raw materials drives up the price.
(2) Labor-Intensive Production
Only the tender buds are used for Jin Jun Mei, and every bud must be picked by hand. It takes 60,000 to 80,000 buds to make just 500 grams of tea. This labor-intensive process significantly increases production cost.
(3) High Market Demand
Jin Jun Mei retains the advantages of traditional Lapsang Souchong black tea, while improving both its appearance and internal quality through modern techniques. This innovation fulfills the needs of high-end tea consumers, enriching the diversity of China’s black tea market.
Tie Luohan is harvested each spring and undergoes a complex series of steps: sun withering, cooling, shaking, pan-firing, primary rolling, secondary firing, secondary rolling, water-roasting, picking and sorting, cooling, more picking, re-roasting, final sorting, and flame-drying.
The leaves are tightly twisted and glossy, with a mix of red and green hues. The liquor is bright orange, and the aroma is rich, persistent, and floral.
Bai Ji Guan can be harvested up to three times a year, always on sunny days. Its processing includes withering, sun-drying, shaking, pan-firing, rolling, cloth-wrapping, baking, sieving, wind-sorting, picking, piling, and packaging.
The dry leaves are soft, curled into strips, resembling the shape of a cockscomb. The color is yellowish-brown, and it carries a delicate orchid-like aroma. The brewed liquor is clear and bright, with a mellow and refreshing taste. The infused leaf base is tender and uniform—truly a rare and high-quality tea.
In addition to Wuyi Mountain’s renowned teas, the Northern Fujian region also produces three prestigious Gongfu black teas: Bailin Gongfu, Tanyang Gongfu, and Zhenghe Gongfu. These teas represent the traditional craftsmanship and regional excellence of Fujian’s tea culture.
Bailin Gongfu is produced in Bailin Town, Fuding City, Fujian Province. This tea is picked in both spring and autumn and only harvested on sunny or cloudy days. Its traditional processing includes withering, rolling, unblocking, fermentation, and baking.
The dry tea features slender, slightly curved strips, with yellow-black color and abundant white fuzz. It gives off a pure fragrance with notes of licorice. The liquor is light and bright, with a fresh, slightly mild taste. The infused leaves are bright red tinged with yellow.
Tanyang Gongfu is one of China’s four most famous Gongfu teas and one of Fujian’s three best-known Gongfu teas. Since its initial development, it has quickly gained fame both domestically and abroad, exported to countries such as the Netherlands, the UK, Japan, and various Southeast Asian regions.
It is produced in Tanyang Village, at the foot of Baiyun Mountain in Fu’an City, Fujian Province. It is generally picked on sunny days, with harvesting standards requiring one bud and one leaf or one bud and two leaves. Buds and leaves must be plump and free of malformed leaves, scales, pests, or impurities.
The processing includes withering, rolling, fermentation, drying, and fine finishing. The finished tea is thin and soft, with dark, shiny black leaves and visible white fuzz. The fragrance is subtle, the liquor a deep golden yellow, and the taste is fresh, sweet, and smooth. The infused leaves are smooth and complete.
Zhenghe Gongfu is produced in Zhenghe County, in northern Fujian. It is picked in spring and autumn, with spring tea being the most prized. Processing involves withering, rolling, fermentation, and drying—four essential steps.
Zhenghe Gongfu features tightly rolled, curly strips with a gray-black sheen. It has a high, sweet aroma, brilliant red liquor, a thick and mellow taste, and plump, reddish infused leaves.
Fujian Province is also famed for its production of white tea. The four most distinguished types are:
Baihao Yinzhen (Silver Needle) – produced in Fuding and Zhenghe
Bai Mudan (White Peony) – produced in Zhenghe
Shoumei – produced in Zhenghe
Gongmei – produced in Jianyang District (Nanping City), Zhenghe, Songxi, and Fuding
(Note: Since detailed introductions to these white teas have been covered in earlier sections or articles, they are not repeated here.)
Among them, Fuding white tea enjoys the greatest national and international reputation and is beloved by tea enthusiasts across the world.
Wuyi Mountain is more than just a scenic landmark—it's a sacred land of tea. With a history that spans dynasties and an environment that fosters excellence, its teas are renowned not only for their flavor and aroma but also for the legends and craftsmanship behind them.
From the imperial tribute tea Da Hong Pao to the globally recognized Zhengshan Xiaozhong, the modern innovation of Jin Jun Mei, and the floral delicacy of Bai Ji Guan, every tea from Wuyi tells a story.
The tradition continues today, with Rou Gui, Tie Luohan, and the Three Fujian Gongfu Teas keeping the legacy alive. Whether you're a seasoned connoisseur or a curious newcomer, tasting Wuyi tea is like sipping from history itself—rich, refined, and resonant.
Should you ever visit Wuyi Mountain, don’t just admire its cliffs and rivers. Find a quiet tea house, hold a cup of rock tea to your lips, and feel the "rock charm" (Yan Yun) linger on your tongue. That’s when you’ll understand: in the tea, there is the mountain; in the mountain, there is the tea.
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